Aldo Zilli Returns to London

There are some meals you never forget. For me, it was lobster ravioli, served in armchairs so close to the next table that I could clearly hear their hushed romantic debate. It was 1998, my first business trip to London, and my first encounter with the magic of Aldo Zilli.

I hadn’t expected anything magical that evening. As a rookie business traveller, I didn’t even know the company would pay for my meals. My post-meeting plan was to quickly change out of my suit and grab a Big Mac to take back to the hotel. Then my boss suggested we eat together. Wandering through Soho, neither of us knowing the area, we stumbled across Zilli Fish on Brewer Street.

From the moment we walked in, I was hooked. The warm, slightly chaotic buzz, the tapenade (what was this briny delight?) offered with bread, and that lobster ravioli – creamy, delicate, perfect – set a standard I’ve been chasing ever since. When I moved to London a few years later, Zilli Fish became my benchmark, my go-to, my temple of indulgence. Dates, colleagues, solo evenings with a book – it became part of my London identity.

And then, one day, it was gone. A Bill’s in its place. For years, the memory of Zilli Fish lingered like a postcard from a city that no longer existed. Until now. Aldo Zilli is back, and this time, he’s bringing something extraordinary.

A New Chapter: Undercroft in Mayfair

Aldo Zilli’s return to the London dining scene comes after a 20-year absence. His new venture, Undercroft, is far from a mere revival of past glories. Located in the atmospheric crypts beneath St George’s Church in Mayfair, Undercroft is a sophisticated marriage of history, art, music, and, of course, exceptional food.

The setting itself is a masterpiece. With exposed brickwork, subtle lighting, and a grand piano anchoring the room, the space feels both timeless and contemporary. Live music will weave through the dining experience, creating an atmosphere that’s part jazz club, part Renaissance salon. For more intimate occasions, there’s a private dining room, but it’s the main space – alive with art, design, and conversation – that captures Zilli’s ethos of bringing people together.

The Menu: A Culinary Journey Across Italy

Undercroft’s menu is an ambitious homage to the 20 regions of Italy, embracing seasonality and regional traditions. There’s whole lobster tagliolini, a dish that immediately sparks nostalgia for Zilli Fish aficionados like me. Monkfish porchetta, slow-cooked beef rib, and veal escalope saltimbocca reflect Zilli’s ability to balance bold flavours with restraint.

Zilli’s commitment to the craft is unmistakable. This isn’t a menu designed for Instagram. It’s food to savour, to linger over with a glass of something Italian and exceptional. It’s a celebration of Italy’s diversity, where each dish feels like a postcard from a different corner of the country.

More Than a Meal: The Undercroft Experience

Undercroft is more than a restaurant; it’s a collaboration. Zilli has partnered with music publisher Martin Priestnall and entrepreneur Michael Kill to create a space where art, design, music, and food converge. This integration of disciplines sets it apart, promising an experience that extends beyond the plate.

Zilli himself, in a characteristically warm and enthusiastic Instagram video, described the venture as his triumphant return to London. “After 20 years of being missing from London, I’m back,” he declared. For those of us who have missed him, it feels like a homecoming.

Aldo Zilli: The Man Behind the Magic

Zilli’s career spans decades, and his legacy is as much about his personality as his food. Born in Alba Adriatica, a seaside town in Abruzzo, he learned to cook from his mother, one of nine siblings in a home where food was love. Since moving to the UK in 1976, Zilli has opened iconic restaurants, become a fixture on television, authored bestselling cookbooks, and even won Celebrity Hunted.

During the pandemic, he pivoted to launching Casa Zilli, a family-run delivery service from his Surrey home. Now, with Undercroft, Zilli seems ready to bridge the intimacy of home cooking with the grander stage of the London dining scene.

A Must-Visit for Business Travellers

For business travellers, London can be overwhelming. The endless options, the frenetic pace – finding something genuinely memorable can feel like a task. That’s why places like Undercroft matter. They aren’t just about the food; they’re about the experience. Undercroft promises to be a retreat, a moment to pause, connect, and savour the best of Italy in a setting that’s unmistakably London.

For me, the return of Aldo Zilli is a reminder of why food matters so much in our lives. It’s not just sustenance; it’s a way of creating memories, of rooting ourselves in a place, of celebrating the simple and the extraordinary.

Undercroft opens soon. I know where I’ll be booking my next table. And yes, I’ll be ordering the lobster.